Thursday, July 29, 2010

Holy molé

We have arrived! We spent yesterday in the city (San Fran, obvs :) with my dad, munching on some house of nanking and getting nostalgic about our old days on Green St. We were dropped at SFO and joined the hour plus line to check in; security check was no joke either. After a hellish sleep deprived coupla flights, we hopped on a combo bus that gave us a tour of rural Oaxaca before plopping us at our gorgeous hotel an hour later. The time? Eight-thirty am. Check in wasn't until one, so we put out bags down, enjoyed some delish cinnamon coffee, and stared at each other with the realization that we are completely outta practice. Nights like last were the norm a year ago, now we look like we have been hit by a chicken bus after one measly night of discomfort. We better shape up! We grabbed our camera and cash, and set out to explore.

First stop, the Cathedral de Santa Domingo. Dubbed the most impressive in all of Oaxaca, the carved ceiling and incredible reliefs did not disappoint. Southbound, to the zocalo! Oaxaca is a darling city- reminiscent of Antigua with its old colonial architecture and color schemes. We hobbled downtown, admired the local entrepreneurs and the crap they were selling (from a distance!) and settled in at a cafe on the SE corner of the square for what will be known as the best huevos rancheros of my life. Oli's huevos de oaxaquina were delightful, ohhhhh all that queso fresco! This is going to be a challenge not eating every second of our time here. Maybe we should bite the bullet and reserve another seat on the flight home for our inevitable taco-induced love handles. I digress...
One thing we were not expecting was the vast number of bugs here. No, not las cucarachas- more along the lines of the German type. There are vw bugs on every corner, on every street. They've got to be the most popular car in Oaxaca. Even on the drive in from el aeropuerto we passed two vw dealerships. Oh Mexico, you are always full of surprises.

We headed back to our little Eden, las mariposas, and our room was ready! And hot damn, they gave us the nicest room in the place. Right at the back, overlooking the courtyard, big window, vaulted ceilings, king size bed, and a shower that I was happy to use whilst barefooted. What could be better? Ah yes.... Nap time.

Fast forward to dinnertime, which coincidentally is when we woke up. We ventured into town, past the grand Santo Domingo, and arrived at a hip little place that was packed to the gills. Dos mezcales de la casa por favor, y dos coronas. And the best molé we have ever tasted. Oaxaca has certainly held up it's end of the bargain! We are gonna stay put until Monday, when we venture out to the coast. But for now, we have lots of chocolate to sample, some ruins to see, and of course, to celebrate the passing of my first quarter century on this earth. I have a feeling that not all 26th birthdays could possibly be this much fun. We truly are blessed!

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

sounds scrumptious!!! wish we were there!!! better get some beer money off to u guys-don't want u going thirsty. btw nobody told me ur blog was back up and running-oh well-usually the last to know. have fun!!!